There are many different ways to travel in Japan. You may choose to follow the traditional routes or take on the challenge of modern Japan; it all depends on your purpose, your budget and your schedule. When I travel, I note where local people gather and what seems to be popular with them. This helps me find interesting places to see and things to do.
This is not so easy if you don't speak Japanese. Before setting off, do as much research as possible on the Internet, in books and magazines, especially if you don't have local contacts. It can be hard to find information in local areas in English, but you will find general information at Tourist Information Centers and large hotels in big cities such as Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto.
Japan has all the usual modes of transport: domestic flights, rail, bus, rent-a-car and ferry. Although domestic flights seem the obvious choice for long distances, you need to consider the distance to and from airports and waiting times against the speed, frequency and convenience of the renowned Shinkansen bullet trains. The islands of Hokkaido in the north and Kyushu in the south are linked to the mainland by tunnels. Shikoku in the east is linked by a bridge, so most of Japan is covered by shinkansen, which can be economical for overseas travelers who pre-purchase one, two or three-week rail passes before leaving home. The pass lets you take any shinkansen, JR train, bus or ferry anywhere in Japan, interrupting your trip as often as you wish to explore at your leisure. Except for the Narita-bound trains, you need not reserve a seat except in high season. At larger stations you can enjoy an ekiben convenience meal, but I prefer to wait until I'm on the train and have a lunch box meal from the mobile trolleys that pass through the carriages and offer a tempting range of food. The best thing about train travel is being able to sit back, dine and enjoy the scenery without any of the hassles of traffic.
If you have time but a tight budget, an economical alternative is the bus, which may take longer but allows you to see more local scenery. Good food can be found at the amazing michinoeki road stations on the expressways. Many of these complexes have spectacular scenic views, they sell fruit, snacks, lunch boxes or even restaurant meals if you have time. Buses are also a convenient way of seeing the highlights of the big cities, expecially if you have limited time. It is a good idea to check details at the local Tourist Information Centers (often near the main station) as some of the buses are free.
Ferries are good for inter-island travel. Some overnight trips, such as Tokyo to Hakodate in Hokkaido, are available if you have time. Relax and enjoy hotel-style comfort in a unique setting. A simple ferry ride from the mainland to Miyajima on a cold winter's morning, when not many locals travel, can be a highlight of your trip as you approach the famous red torii (shrine gates) which appear to float on the water at high tide.
Renting a car may seem convenient, but Japan's cities and expressways have hefty toll charges and regular traffic jams, parking is never easy and is usually expensive. However, if you are heading out of town, it gives you freedom to explore the road less traveled and you can stop at road stations for sustenance and even regional road maps in English - if you're lucky, though never be fooled by English written on the outside. Open the map to make sure it is in English inside too! In Japan, cars drive on the left hand side of the road and most direction signs are written in Roman script. You will need an international driving licence from your home country.
Travelling with heavy luggage can be a problem, but Japan has relatively cheap and efficient courier services. I've found that Takuhaibin, Kuroneko (easily identified by its black cat signboards) or Kangaroobin get my baggage to where it needs to be, including the airport, in plenty of time. This service is available from airports and convenience stores, but is even cheaper from the company depot. You can ask at the tourist information center at airports or railway stations. Luggage services are available at post offices too, but may take longer.
Japanese business hotels are basic, with small rooms, but they provide breakfast and there are many to choose from - depend on your budget. I have never stayed in a capsule hotel, where you sleep in a tiny space and share a bathroom. They tend to be very cheap but are at least centrally located.
A ryokan is not cheap, but a good way to experience Japanese living. Each ryokan has a theme, such as onsen (hot springs) pr excellent meals. Minshuku are private houses - similar to B&Bs. You can also stay at a Buddhist temple. I stayed in pilgrims' lodgings at Shojoshinin temple in Koyasan, Wakayama prefecture one winter. It was comfortable with a heater in each room, but the corridors were so cold we could imagine the tough conditions of the old days.
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