Essentially Japanese Cooking & Cuisine - Hideo Dekura : Restaurant Dining in Japan

   If you want to dine out for sake and food, an izakaya is the place to go. Izakaya is often translated as Japanese pub, but is one of the unique styles of Japanese restaurants in which to enjoy sake (alcohol including sake, beer, shochu and others) with food to match. Izakaya-ryori (food at izakaya), is usually a small entrée or snack size dished. When ordering sake in Izakaya you also are served tsukidashi, a complementary dish like hors d'oeuvre. Izakaya originated in the Edo Era (1603-1867) as liquor shops that sold sake by volume. Later they started serving sake on the premises as well. Gradually they provided snacks to be served with the drink. Until the 1970s, izakaya had an image of a place for salaried men to drink sake, but these days the image has changed. They have changed the menu, furniture and interiors to attract women and family groups and to become more casual.
   Aka-chochin (red lantern) is another word for izakaya because they traditionally hang a red lantern out the front as a sign. However, Yakitori-ya, where staff grill yakitori (skewered chicken) in front of customers - also serve sake and hang red lanterns. Oden-ya restaurants sell oden, a Japanese hotchpotch or stew made in a large pot. Robata-yaki restaurants have robata, a grilling fire place and the robata-yaki chef uses a giant wooden ladle to serve the dished from beside the fireplace.
   Ryotei are high-class Japanese restaurants, usually set in a sukiya-style building, which is based on a tea-ceremony arbor with a beautiful Japanese garden. They use ceramics by famous potters and fixtures such as hanging scrolls, paintings and furniture designed by leading artists, which are sometimes changed depending on the season, the occasion or guests. Using premium-quality ingredients, the chefs- who train for a minimum of ten years before they qualify - carefully start preparing some days before. Ryotei provide orthodox Japanese entertainment, such as Geisha and gagaku, traditional Japanese music.
   Ryotei provide the best environment to enjoy dining, service and food and are patronized by corporate executives, politicians or VIPs for confidential meetings. Ryotei used to accept only regular customers with a reservation, not passing trade. However, since the Japanese bubble economy had burst, the number of meetings had declined and ryotei have struggled. Their prices used to be so expensive that the majority of people could not afford them and, although some ryotei still are, most now prepare a fixed-price menu to encourage visitors. Some modern Japanese restaurants now also use the prestigious name of ryotei but serve meals in a more casual and vibrant setting - without the super-fine dining.
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Jingisukan - Lamb in Hokkaido-style



In Jingisukan, a special dome-shaped hotplate - like turtle's shell is used to prevent the oil and sauces from pooling and stewing the meat while it's grilling. Jingisukan can be cooked at home with a Jingisukan plate- bought from Asian shops - on a portable gas or electric hotplate at the dining table. This Jingisukan dish has a combination of vegetables and marinated lamb that is meant to be eaten as it is being cooked, as set of hotplate up at the dining table.

Ingredients
 - Dipping sauce
 - 400g lamb rump, thinly sliced
 - Small cube of lamb fat, or vegetable oil
 - 1 packet of bean sprouts, rinsed and drained
 - garlic chives, chopped, added to bean sprouts.
 - 1 brown onion, peeled and sliced in rings.
 - 1 carrot, peeled, sliced and precooked in microwave.
 - 1 green capsicum, de-seeded and cut into pieces.
 - Any other vegetable in season such as cabbage, pumpkin, snow peas, etc.

Steps
 1 . Marinate lamb in prepared sauce for at least half an hour. Heat the dome-shaped teppan and spread with lamb fat or oil. Place some bean sprouts with chives, onion, carrot and capsicum on the teppan. Grill for 2-3 minutes or until lightly cooked.
 2 . Place some lamb slices on the hotplate and cook for 2-3 minutes, turning once. Drizzle some sauce over the vegetables.
 3 . You can eat directly from the dome teppan, continuing to add more ingredients to the hotplate as required. Serve with Jingisukan sauce for dipping.

Essentially Japanese Cooking & Cuisine - Hideo Dekura : Houcho - Japanese Knife

   The Japanese knife evolved from the samurai sword. It is single ground - only one side has a cutting edge - unlike Western knives, which has double- sided blades. Originally the Japanese knife was made from obsidian or quartz by striking, grinding and polishing. Eventually sword craftsmen developed a form of steel called tamahagane, which is only produced in western Japan in a high-heat smelter or tatara from iron dust and pure charcoal. Tamahagane is extremely expensive and difficult to forge. It was first used in the Nara Era to produce sharp, strong swords. It is the ultimate sword-making material and now used for knives as well.
   In the Heian Era, cooking methods developed to suit the various new knives. In the Kamakura Era, shojin ryori (temple cuisine) spread advanced cooking method around the nation along with knives quite similar to those we have today.
   In the Meiji Era, Western knives were introduced. After World War II, new types of knives were introduced which, although still in the single blade Japanese style, were made from stainless steel which does not rust and so became very popular.

A MASTER OF SWORD-SMITHING IN SEKI, SHIGA PREFECTURE. 

   My friend in Seki city, Mr Ozeki, introduced me to Mr Kato, a man whose family have been sword-smiths in Seki since the Muromachi Era. He is a 25th generation master of Kanefusa Fujiwara.
   During the civic wars in the capital of Kamakura, a group of sword-smith escaped from the disturbances to search for a new place with rich resources for sword making. They settled in Seki and invented their own refining methods. Gradually Seki became very famous for tosho (sword-smiths) and swords. However, once the era of civic war was over, the need for swords declined and many sword-smiths started to use their skills to make domestic knives or tools.
   Today, you need a special licence to keep a katana (samurai sword). Katana were not only used as weapons, they were also kept as a symbol of a samurai's soul and fighting power. For the Imperial family or at the temple, a katana is a symbol of authority.
   To make a katana, a tosho needs secret skills, which involve using his whole body to judge materials and timing. At the workshop in Seki, I watched Master Fujiwara in action as he forged burning steel without hesitation and sparks flew up around him. It was such a strong experience I felt there was strong power residing in that workshop.

Essentially Japanese Cooking & Cuisine - Hideo Dekura : Japanese Cuisine--A History

   Japan's culture is a unique mixture of historic elements and a continuing stream of inputs from other countries both near and far, the foreign elements now arriving at an ever-increasing pace. This is only too evident when we start to look at what is happening in the rice industry. Japan's level of rice consumption has dropped considerably because there are now so many food choices, creating problems for rice producers. For a long time, the rice industry has been protected by the government and the lower level of consumption has led to the stockpiling of rice. 

   A national system of rice production was developed as long ago as 200 BC, which involved payments of rice as a form of taxation. From that point in time, Japanese food culture was influenced by politics and in some ways has been ever since. 

   In the Nara Era, (701-794), the ruling establishment operated along strong Buddhist lines, with strict laws forbidding the consumption of meat and strong condiments such as garlic, chili and ginger. Subsequently, under the direction of the Imperial Court, vegetable cultivation along Chinese lines was established. The temple cuisine which evolved at that time was very simple, but by the end of the Muromachi Era (1336-1573) a more sophisticated style known as Shojin Ryori had been developed. This involved much more attention to the ways in which the vegetables were prepared, cooked and presented; maximum effort with minimum ingredients. More specialized forms of banquet-style cuisine know as Honzen Ryori evolved for the court nobility (kuge) and samurai (bushi). Up till the Moromachi period, a system of shokureiho (food etiquette) had evolved which demanded high standards of correct placement and usage of particular bowls and chopsticks for specific foods. This became most evident during the meal preceding the Kaiseki (tea ceremony), which required a very delicate, controlled style of dining. Within high society, banquets were common and rather than being a convivial means of expressing their loyalty to the gods and their masters, they became more of a political power game of one-upmanship, a public pronouncement of allegiances. These banquets started with a greeting of sake, followed by a fine meal, followed by a sake banquet with entertainment such as singing, dancing and geisha. Whereas the taste of food had originally driven the involvement of Honzen Ryori, as it reached a peak, the visual effect of the food started to dominate, such that appearance and presentation rather than the taste or amount of food were the driving factors in change. Morsels of food, exquisitely carved, twisted, shaped and carefully placed on beautiful dishes were the order of the day. By the Edo Era (1603-1867), however, much of Honzen Ryori had become simplified and the elegant banquet style was reserved for special events such as weddings. 

   In earlier times, depending on the time of day, chanoyu, the tea ceremony was performed. It may have been preceded by a formal meal known as chakaiseki. It was not until some time in the Momoyama Era (1567-1600) that Riyku, acknowledged in japan as the founder of the tea ceremony, raised it to the level of an art form. The resulting chakaiseki is ritualistic and is more an expression of life's blessings than a full-on feast, it is a time to reflect, even meditate, a time to acknowledge the seasons and the design of the bowls, the plates and the presentation of the food. It also serves to ease the pangs of hunger before partaking of green tea. 

   During the Edo Era, The elevation of the status of merchant classes from their lowly beginnings to a level of considerable significance changed the balance of society, so that a broader range of food was accessible to a greater number of people. Formal dining and banqueting, which had previously been the domain of nobility and the upper classes, became mainstream Japanese cuisine and adapted accordingly. Further adaptations swept through the food industry with the opening up of trade in the Meiji Era (1867-1912) and again after World War II and continue to do so today. Despite this, among all the new, if we look carefully, we can still find the wonderful old traditions that have survived Japan's changing, well-notated eras. One of the joys of eating in Japan is discovering such a meal, imaging how it must have been in its heyday long ago and storing it up as a memory for the future. Natsukashi. (Oh, the good old days.) 

Essentially Japanese Cooking & Cuisine - Hideo Dekura : Niseko A new Style of Home Cooking

   Niseko is located on Hokkaido, the northernmost island of Japan. It has a total area of approximately 83,451 square kilometers and accounts for about 22 percents of the total area of Japan but only about five percent of the population. Originally inhabited by native Ainu, Hokkaido's modern development began in 1869 with the establishment of the Colonization Commission.
   Recently Hokkaido has seen significant development and population growth with the capital, Sapporo now being the fifth largest city in Japan. Fisheries and agriculture have been the foundation of Hokkaido's growth.
   Hokkaido has a relatively cool climate compared to the rest of Japan. Winters can be very cold with large amounts of snow falling. This is a great place for skiers, snow boarders and other winter sports lovers to consider as a holiday destination. Niseko is one of the best ski spots in Hokkaido and is famous around the world for its ski resorts and powder snow. It is called the 'St. Moritz of Asia'. Recently the number of tourists from overseas coming here in search of powder snow has been increasing.
   Niseko is blessed with beautiful countryside and prosperous livestock and agricultural industries. Some Niseko women, who were later called Jyuugo-baa, (which means 15 grannies and middle-aged women), voluntarily got together and established the Niseko Process Foods Workshop, to actively promote the marketing of local products. They appealed to the community to appreciate the importance of developing local food and used their expertise to research and study local traditional food products and then to recreate them. They created a menu using mainly local products and ingredients, which they use in their daily lives with lots of love and care as if for the family; they are not genteel but they are authentic. When I shared a meal with them, it brought back fond memories of good home cooking; it was food just like grandmother used to make.
   Hokkaido and Niseko are not ancient like Kyoto, so the people there quite freely use modern ingredients such as lactic acid milk drink at their tables and are quite adventurous in their use of ingredients. Their dishes are not always strictly traditional but show respect to the ingredients, to nature and to people. This modernity has attracted newcomers from all over Japan who are attracted to the nature of Niseko.

Essentially Japanese Cooking & Cuisine - Hideo Dekura : Geography and Regional Cuisine

 



 Japan is an island continent off the eastern coast of Asia. Climates vary from the tropical weather of Okinawa in the south to the short summers and long, icy winters of Hokkaido in the north. Both plant and animal life reflect these climactic variations, resulting in distinctive regional customs and food cultures.
   Weather patterns are so distinctive that the media makes annual reference to the sakura zensen, the Spring Front, a virtual wave of cherry blossoms that sweeps through the country from the warmer southern districts to the colder regions in the north. Along the 6000-kilometer stretch of Japan, people follow the progression of the Spring Front on television and radio in anticipation of leaving the dreary winter weather behind and celebrating the joy of spring under the cherry blossoms - the one time of the year when they really party outdoors. Everywhere people plan outdoor banquets which are part and parcel of hanami, cherry-blossom time, a major event all over Japan between late March and early May, depending on the location. There is a saying that it is lucky if the blossoms of a cherry tree fall in your glass while celebrating hanami.
   Japan - Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu, the Okinawa archipelago and the smaller islands - have a total area of 380,000 square kilometers, little more than Britain and Italy combined. The population is about 128 million, with Tokyo the most densely populated area.
   Tokyo was called Edo from 1603 - the time of the shogunate of Tokugawa Ieyasu - now called the Edojidai or Edo ear. With the exception of Okinawa, japan remained under the feudal contral of the shogunate until 1868, when it was defeated with the assistance of French weapons and military. Government was centralized in Tokyo, where the population had increased dramatically over the 200-year period. During the Meiji Era, people started moving from the countryside looking for work, swelling the population even more. This trend continues today.
   Tokyo means "the eastern capital", which refers to its position relative to the old capital of Kyoto, established in 794. The castle-city of Heiankyo, in the center of Kyoto, served as the capital until the center of power was transferred to Edo in the 17th century.
   The region surrounding Osaka, known as Kamigata, flourished as Japan's third cultural and economic center. The three major cities, Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka and their surrounding districts evolved distinct regional characteristics because of their varying historical influences, their particular geographical locations, development of their economies and transport systems, their culture and the people's sense of identity. In total, Japan became divided into nine separate regions with their own climate, local government, lifestyle, food cultures and dialects.
   Japan has a variety of natural resources and distinctive regional foods. The inland areas are well served by rivers and the surrounding mountains and the coastal areas abound in seafood, giving rise to distinctive variations in ingredients and cooking methods.

   Along the Japan Sea coastline and throughout Kyushu there has been considerable influence from nearby Asia and, even in the period of the National Isolation Policy, Western influence was rapidly adoped in Nagasaki, which was easily accessed by Western visitors. Western food was quickly adapted to suit the Japanese style in much the same was as new food is tried and reinvented even today. Tempura and kastera (Castella or Madeira cake) and Pan (bread) are examples of this custom and are still as popular as ever in japan's current cuisine.
   Japanese regional cuisine is inseparably linked to the seasonal celebrations and religious festivals of both Buddhism and Shintoism. The seasonal fluctuations herald changes in food and eating habits. For instance, osechiryori - boxes of preparedfood and nanakusa-gayu (seven herb rice porridge) can be kept for three days over the New Year period. Throughout Japan the change of season is a significant factor triggering the desire to eat particular foods.
   A new wave of food culture in Japan's more urbanized society reflects overseas influences as younger generations embrace an increasing desire for instant gratification. Country area face a declining population as young people move to the cities and life is becoming more difficult for those left behind. However, there are moves towards highlighting the benefits of rural living, such as cheaper real estate, affordable living and traditional values. This movement, known as mura-okoshi (village revival) is proving quite successful and is satisfying to see, as I feel the opposing forces of the new and the old must learn to co-exist in order to preserve traditional regional cuisine for future generations.

ORGANIC FOOD IN JAPAN

   Although Japan has long been identified with rice growing, we seldom think of it in terms of organic farming. This may soon change. In the heart of Fukuoka, a Mr Furuno runs a successful organic farm and I was fortunate to attend a seminar that he runs for farmers and others from all over Japan. Mr Furuno explains the principles of farming without agri-chemicals. There we were, standing in a field in the blazing summer sun, learning everything from how to prepare the soil to sowing the seeds to developing and expanding an organic vegetable business.
   After the workshop they took us to Laputa, a successful organic restaurant in an isolated spot called Tagawa-gun. I was surprised to see so many people so far from the city. The key to their success is that - apart from being in a beautiful vineyard - they use only carefully selected fresh local ingredients and seasonings, are always developing new and creative menus and make their patrons feel at home. Their lunchtime buffet is particularly popular with an agreeable mixture of Eastern and Western dishes, not too heavy and beautifully and colorfully presented. I was exhilarated by the whole experience - from the sowing of the seeds to the eating of the product. I wonder what impact Mr Furuno's farming techniques and his training of so many farmers will have on the food industry throughout Japan.

KIMOTTAMA-KAASAN (COURAGEOUS MOTHER)

   In Japan, as in modern society everywhere, the rise of the nuclear family and disturbance of the traditional family structure has affected home cooking and the opportunity to continue traditional food culture. Everyone in Japan recognizes the impact of globalization. Traditions are not static, our manners and customs have changed with time and they are changing ever faster. This makes it very important to understand and protect the traditions and environment of Japan, but also be flexible enough to meet a new challenge. To reverse this, there are many grassroots activities occurring these days. Ms Etsuko Namikawa in Nagaoka-kyo, Kyoto, took action at a very early stage. She is known as a Kimottama-kaasan (courageous mother), who adores her home town, its local products and food. As a home cooking expert Ms Namikawa regularly holds cooking classes and lectures about local life. She brings to classes for young people traditional Kyoto vegetables from her vegetable garden and talks about their goodness and character in season. Her Kansai accent has an affinity with the locals and her classes are always full of laughter. Ms Namikawa has also established a circle in which the members cherish special local products, and in using those ingredients they pro-actively participate in the movement to develop new recipes in Nagaoka-kyo.
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Kyuri, chikin, o-fu no goma-ae
Cucumber, Chicken and O-Fu in Sesame Vinaigrette



Kyoto is famous for its fu or wheat gluten. Fu comes in two forms, nama-fu which is raw and yaki-fu which is cooked. To make fu, flour and water are vigorously kneaded ad the starch is washed out. Nama-fu is then colored, shaped and flavored using such ingredients as mugwort or green nori flakes and then steamed. Yaki-fu is leavened with baking powder and baked.

Ingredients:
 - 2 Japanese or Lebanese cucumbers.
 - 12 small flower-shaped yaki-fu, soaked in water until soft.
 - Salt to taste
 - 200g chicken breast, tenderloin
 - 1 tablespoon white sesame seeds, roasted
 - 1/4 cup rice vinegar
 - 1 1/2 tablespoons caster sugar
 - 1 1/2 table spoons bonito, dashi stock
 - 1/2 teaspoon light soy sauce.

Steps:
 1 . Trim the ends off the cucumber and slice thinly. Soak cucumber in the tate-jio (about a cup of water with a pinch of salt ) for 10 minutes. Drain and squeeze out the excess water.
 2 . Squeeze the excess water out of the yaki-fu.
 3 . Sprinkle salt over chicken, then grill (broil). Once cooked, shred the chicken.
 4 . Using a mortar and pestle, grind the sesame seeds and add rice vinegar, sugar, dashi, and soy sauce and mix to make the sesame dressing.
 5 . Sprinkle dressing over the chicken, yaki-fu and cucumber.

Essentially Japanese Cooking & Cuisine - Hideo Dekura : The Charms of Life in Shirakawago

   Shirakawago in Gifu prefecture is one of the most famous mountain villages in Japan. It is not a historic spot with a prestigious shrine or temple, however it has beautiful scenery and its traditional old houses meant the village was proudly registered on the World Heritage list 1995. These gassho-zukuri houses, which were built in the 18th century when silk production flourished, were designed to protect against strong winds and heavy snow using Japanese pampas grass or a special local building material call sone. I am always amazed when I see the gables of these houses; the roofs have a substantial slope and create such a perfect picturesque scene. However, these villages have not always found it easy to preserve gassho-zukuri houses. When their main local industries had declined people had to leave the village to find work, and in the 1060s the village was partially flooded to build dams. Under these circumstances, they lost thirty per cent of the gassho-zukuri houses. Finally, the loss became big news throughout Japan and people began to protect them as an important part of their heritage. People's attitudes have gradually changed to appreciate the culture and value of village life. We should not choose economic benefit over our heritage. Shirakawago is now a big tourist destination and a prosperous village. However, I hope it will not become too commercialized and lose its beautiful traditional culture.

   In Shirakawago, there are many minshuku (Japanese bed and breakfast) where you can experience the local foods and stay in rooms where the floor is covered watami mats. Rooms are divided by fusuma (sliding screens).  I stayed at one called Furusata (meaning hometown or historic village), which is owned by the Kimura family. I was introduced to Mrs Minori Kimura, the 83-year-old mistress of Furusato who had been living in Shirakawago since she got married. Before dinner, Mrs Kimura greeted us in our room. She was a chrming and prcious person who knew all about the local history of the once prosperous forestry area and about the edible wild plants in the mountains. She had learnt how to preserve food, using these plants, from her ancestors. People then ate wild rabbit, pheasant, and even bear because this was the only way to get protein. People's lives were so isolated and harsh in the mountains, especially in the long winters with the intense cold and heavy snow falls that they had to work hard to survive.

   The local people valued miso as a priceless form of protein in their diet; however, the water around the area is hard because it comes from the volcanic region of the North Japan Alps so they couldn't use it for miso-soup. Miso was eaten with cooked rice. one day, the village people were working in the forests and as usual they brought cooked rice with miso as their lunch. Then they had the idea that miso might be rather delicious warmed up with the edible wild plants. They placed miso on the hoba (ficuslynata) leaf, grilled it over a fire and found it was really delicious. Nowadays, this dish is known as the most prestigious cuisine in this area and it is called "Hoba miso".

   Mrs Kinura (right) explained how to preserve the hoba leaves (above). When autumn comes and the leaves are falling, people collect them and bring them home. They rinse them thoroughly and blanch them in salted water to sterilize them, then let them dry naturally. When it's time to use the leaves, they just need to soak them in water for a while. Mrs Kimura said, "the relationship between nature and human beings is that we should get along with each other. We owe what we are to nature. Living in Shirakawago is co-existing with nature. I would like to give hospitality to my guests by serving food that I used to have."

   Hospitality does not need to be fancy, but full of knowledge and the love of nature and living creatures.

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Hoba Miso [Miso on the hoba leaf]
Ingredients:
  - 4 dried shiitake mushrooms, rinsed.
  - 100g akamiso or hacchomiso (dark brown miso paste)
  - 100g shishu miso (light brown miso)
  - 2 teaspoons veggie oil
  - 6 tablespoons mirin
  - 2 spring onions, trimmed and chopped.
  - 4 hoba leaves (if you cannot find hoba leaves, use aluminium foil instead)

Optional Ingredients:
  - Mushroom, spring onions, thinly sliced beef, egg or fried bean curd.

Steps:
 1 . Soak shiitake in water for 30 minutes. Drain and squeeze out the water, the slice.
 2. Combine akamiso, light brown miso, oil and mirin. Add to spring onion and the shiitake.
 3. Soak hoba leaves in luckwarm water for about 10 minutes.
 4. Place leaves on a grill or frying pan.
 5 Place miso mixture on top of the hoba and cook with desired optional ingredients over low heat.
[Serve with rice]

Essentially Japanese Cooking & Cuisine - Hideo Dekura : Travelling and Eating in Japan

   There are many different ways to travel in Japan. You may choose to follow the traditional routes or take on the challenge of modern Japan; it all depends on your purpose, your budget and your schedule. When I travel, I note where local people gather and what seems to be popular with them. This helps me find interesting places to see and things to do.
   This is not so easy if you don't speak Japanese. Before setting off, do as much research as possible on the Internet, in books and magazines, especially if you don't have local contacts. It can be hard to find information in local areas in English, but you will find general information at Tourist Information Centers and large hotels in big cities such as Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto.
   Japan has all the usual modes of transport: domestic flights, rail, bus, rent-a-car and ferry. Although domestic flights seem the obvious choice for long distances, you need to consider the distance to and from airports and waiting times against the speed, frequency and convenience of the renowned Shinkansen bullet trains. The islands of Hokkaido in the north and Kyushu in the south are linked to the mainland by tunnels. Shikoku in the east is linked by a bridge, so most of Japan is covered by shinkansen, which can be economical for overseas travelers who pre-purchase one, two or three-week rail passes before leaving home. The pass lets you take any shinkansen, JR train, bus or ferry anywhere in Japan, interrupting your trip as often as you wish to explore at your leisure. Except for the Narita-bound trains, you need not reserve a seat except in high season. At larger stations you can enjoy an ekiben convenience meal, but I prefer to wait until I'm on the train and have a lunch box meal from the mobile trolleys that pass through the carriages and offer a tempting range of food. The best thing about train travel is being able to sit back, dine and enjoy the scenery without any of the hassles of traffic.
   If you have time but a tight budget, an economical alternative is the bus, which may take longer but allows you to see more local scenery. Good food can be found at the amazing michinoeki road stations on the expressways. Many of these complexes have spectacular scenic views, they sell fruit, snacks, lunch boxes or even restaurant meals if you have time. Buses are also a convenient way of seeing the highlights of the big cities, expecially if you have limited time. It is a good idea to check details at the local Tourist Information Centers (often near the main station) as some of the buses are free.
Ferries are good for inter-island travel. Some overnight trips, such as Tokyo to Hakodate in Hokkaido, are available if you have time. Relax and enjoy hotel-style comfort in a unique setting. A simple ferry ride from the mainland to Miyajima on a cold winter's morning, when not many locals travel, can be a highlight of your trip as you approach the famous red torii (shrine gates) which appear to float on the water at high tide.
Renting a car may seem convenient, but Japan's cities and expressways have hefty toll charges and regular traffic jams, parking is never easy and is usually expensive. However, if you are heading out of town, it gives you freedom to explore the road less traveled and you can stop at road stations for sustenance and even regional road maps in English - if you're lucky, though never be fooled by English written on the outside. Open the map to make sure it is in English inside too! In Japan, cars drive on the left hand side of the road and most direction signs are written in Roman script. You will need an international driving licence from your home country.
   Travelling with heavy luggage can be a problem, but Japan has relatively cheap and efficient courier services. I've found that Takuhaibin, Kuroneko (easily identified by its black cat signboards) or Kangaroobin get my baggage to where it needs to be, including the airport, in plenty of time. This service is available from airports and convenience stores, but is even cheaper from the company depot. You can ask at the tourist information center at airports or railway stations. Luggage services are available at post offices too, but may take longer.
   Japanese business hotels are basic, with small rooms, but they provide breakfast and there are many to choose from - depend on your budget. I have never stayed in a capsule hotel, where you sleep in a tiny space and share a bathroom. They tend to be very cheap but are at least centrally located.
A ryokan is not cheap, but a good way to experience Japanese living. Each ryokan has a theme, such as onsen (hot springs) pr excellent meals. Minshuku are private houses - similar to B&Bs. You can also stay at a Buddhist temple. I stayed in pilgrims' lodgings at Shojoshinin temple in Koyasan, Wakayama prefecture one winter. It was comfortable with a heater in each room, but the corridors were so cold we could imagine the tough conditions of the old days.

Untitle

Feeling of
Being caught in the middle of nowhere,
Falling into so-called nothingness,
Shattering into forgetful time,
Wandering inside an endless circle.

Something is missed,
seriously,
intrinsically,
...

Don't know what it is,
Yet it was there,
I am so sure

Day after day,
One after one,
Leaves me,
.
.
.

It is there.
Inside,
All the time,
Waiting for the time being found.
People name it "Change".

Untitle

I "see" wind through the swinging of tree, and floating of feather... Its existence is known by another existence, what is the point?
Things are there,
You can't see it.
Yet accept to believe.

I am known as her friend's friend,
As my mother's son,
As my sister's brother,
As a stranger's acquaintance ...
Not as who I am

............................................

It's strange, whenever I have something tasty, think of cooking it for Mono and friends in Mt.Rainier. Will I ever be there again ?

Sudden smile remember how much Mono seems to like my ugly handmade dumplings XDD

Miss his free Budweiser, hahaha